Blog posts of '2016' 'August' RSS

Acids and what they can do for your skin?

- Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Chemical or acid peels are now becoming more popular within the beauty industry, but for clients beginning their journey to younger more radiant skin, the word acid can send them running for the hills.

So how much do we as therapist know about the world of chemical peels and the benefits they can have for our clients.

So what should we know first? Well our skin is naturally slightly acidic, with a pH between 4 & 5. So acids are actually great for our skin as we recognise them. If our skin becomes too alkaline, this is when our acid mantle layer (protective layer made up of 50/50 oil and sweat) is broken down and our skin is left open to infection. People suffering from acne need more acidity within the skin to help rebuild the acid mantle layer and to stop break outs from occurring.

 

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are water soluble meaning they dissolve in water. These acids are great for exfoliating the skin and reducing pigmentation and fine lines.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are lipid soluble meaning that they dissolve in oil (or fats). These types of acid work better on oily skins to help purify and break down excess oil. Over use of beta hydroxy acids, can have an adverse reaction and cause the skin to become dry and flaky as a result.

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are molecules which attract water and are essential for the skin to lock in moisture.

When a cell goes through oxidation its structure starts to break down. Antioxidants are molecules that stop the oxidation of cells helping to prevent them from diminishing.

Free radicals are external environmental factors that contribute to premature ageing. Free radicals include UV rays, pollution, alcohol and smoking. These start to diminish the cellular turn over on the skin and start to make us look older quicker. We are able to fight free radicals through use of antioxidants and sun protection.

 

Acid?

What is it?

What does it work on?

Skin type best suited to?

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and is an AHA.

It has excellent capabilities at penetrating the skin and is used with in skin care products.

The most common of which is chemical peels using different concentrations of glycolic acid, ranging from 20% - 70%.

The pH of glycolic acid ranges from 0.6 to 2.5

Exfoliates the skin

Reduces fine line and wrinkles

Reduces dark pigmentation and age spots and evens out skin tone.

All skin types can benefit from glycolic acid.

Great for fine lines and wrinkles.

Do not use Vitamin A prior to using glycolic acid as the skin can become sensitive.

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a BHA and comes from plant extracts.

They use the metabolised cells that are responsible for growth, transportation and photosynthesis). It is used in a low concentration in many cosmetics and also is present in aspirin.

Clearing pores

Treating break outs

Building collagen and elastin

Combination skin

Oily Skin

Skin prone to break outs

Acne and problematic skins

 

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a little gem in the acid world as it can hold 100 times its own weight in water, making it a key molecule in skin moisture. It is a glycosaminoglycan naturally found in the skin and when working at its best it is capable of plumping the skin. Hyaluronic acid is also crucial for skin healing and acts as an anti-inflammatory.

Helps to plump and lock in moisture into the skin, by drawing water from its surrounding environment.

All skin types and highly beneficial for dry skins

Good for acne prone skins.

L-Ascorbic acid

L-ascorbic acid is a pure form of vitamin C and a great antioxidant.

It is derived from organic material and is a natural exfoliant.

Helps to prevent UV damage.

Works as an anti-inflammatory.

Helps to exfoliate and brighten the skin.

Stimulates collagen.

Good for all skin types, however be cautious with acne prone skin, as high levels of vitamin C may irritate it.

Ferulic acid

Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that is found in the seeds of fruits like apples.

It fights free radicals that contribute to ageing.

Enhances retinols (vitamin A)

Promotes healthy skin

Prevents sun damage

Fights free radicals

Protects collagen

All skin types

 

Citric acid

Citric acid is an AHA made from fruit extracts.

It is a weaker acid making it more commonly used within cosmetic products.

Speeds up cell renewal

Balances the pH level of the skin

Helps to brighten and lighten the skin.

All skin types except sensitive skin.

Highly beneficial for darker pigmented skin.

Lactic acid

Lactic acid is an AHA and naturally occurring from milk sugars.

 

Naturally exfoliates

Speeds up cellular renewal

 

All skin types, especially those with acne scarring.

 

Comments (0)


The big question on everyone’s lips - What factors affect our skins aging process?

- Wednesday, August 10, 2016

 

Did you know that in the beauty industry anyone over the age of 25 is considered to have mature skin? This is the age that professionals say the aging process starts, when collagen and elastin production starts to diminish.

We know that we start to age, due to the lack of collagen and elastin in the skin as we get older, but with anti-aging, in both men and women, being at the top of their beauty agendas; the big questions are what affects the natural aging process and how much can we do to slow down the inevitable?

So what are the main factors affecting our skins aging process?

Intrinsic Effects

Intrinsic affects, sometimes known as chronological aging, are what we describe in the beauty industry, as the internal genetic factors affecting our skins natural aging process. It’s what we are born with and this can be an advantage or can limit the outcome of our anti-aging routine.

Extrinsic Effects

Extrinsic affects, also known as photo-aging, are the external factors that contribute to our skins natural aging process. External factors include UV exposure (sunlight), smoking, alcohol consumption and diet to name but a few. We all know the dangers and damaging effects of smoking and alcohol, but many of you may not know that Ultra-violet light is said to be the most damaging for the skin.

Ultraviolet light is necessary for our bodies to produce strong bones and helps with skin conditions such as psoriasis, through the production of Vitamin D in our bodies. However, there are negative effect from UV light on our skin. These include skin damage from sunburn, which occurs when we overexpose our skin to UV rays. Skin damage can cause pigmentation, giving us an uneven skin tone, which adds to the look of mature skin and at its worst it can cause skin cancer. Additionally, recent studies have shown that many symptoms related to natural aging (e.g. wrinkle, loss of elasticity etc.) may instead be linked to UV exposure – so that tan may look good now, but you could be paying in wrinkles later.

So what can we do to protect ourselves I hear you ask?
Well firstly, the thing you should know is that your face and hands age the fastest. This is because they generally tend to be more exposed to UV rays throughout our lives. Additionally, even on a cloudy day UV rays still penetrate through, so it is a complete myth that you only need to wear SPF in direct sunlight. Wearing SPF daily is the best way to protect yourself and the best protection comes from factor 30 and up.

SPFs (sun protection factors) do exactly what they say on the tin, they protect us from sun exposure. Nowadays you can look at a bottle of sun tan lotion and it will give you a clear indication of how high (or low) the protection you will be receiving is (dermatologist recommend nothing lower that 15SPF, but 30SPF is more favorable) and also if it protects from both UVA and UVB rays.
 

But what are UVA & UVB rays?


Well the easiest way to remember is that UV A is linked to Aging and UV B is linked to Burning and going Brown, so we need to always be protected from both.


Protecting ourselves from these damaging rays is becoming more of a ‘must do’, with information being readily available from the dermatologists, beauty experts and even the government educating more and more young people on the seriousness of long term exposure without protection, cosmetic brands are now incorporating SPF in to their products; such as face creams, foundations and even primers. Click here to find out our top 10 cosmetic products that include SPF.

So now we know how we can protect and slow the process of aging, is there anything we can do to reverse the signs of premature aging? This question and many more will be answered on our next blog.


Many thanks,
The Beautec Team



P.s We would love to hear your thoughts and if you have questions, so please comment below.

 

Comments (1)


Subscribe, enter your email address

Designed by www.itsystemsltd.com, Powered by nopCommerce.

© 2014 - Beautec Beauty Academy. All Rights Reserved.